How Your Gas Furnace Works

...no need to worry, it's safer than you think!

Your new Trane furnace creates heat by burning fuel (gas or propane). Upon a call for heat from your thermostat, your power vent motor will energize and prep the combustion area for ignition by inducing a draft through the flue pipe system. Following this, your Silicon Carbide Hot Surface Igniter (aka - "pilot light") will glow bright orange for approximately 20-30 seconds, at which point the gas valve will open and send the fuel to the combustion area and the active ignitor. The fuel will ignite and generate a nice blue flame.

When the fuel burns, it generates hot gasses which travel through curved metal tubing called a heat exchanger. Following a predetermined time limit encoded in the furnace control board, the indoor blower motor will energize, thus pulling the cooler air from inside the house through the system to be heated. As this cooler air passes over the heat exchanger, it absorbs heat from the hot metal surface. The heated air is then circulated throughout your duct system to warm your home.

Meanwhile, the gasses that are created by the burning fuel are released outside through a plastic vent pipe. This furnace is so efficient, you will only lose about 10% of your energy out the flue pipe, which is so much better than most furnaces out there today. And because of the little amount of heat that is released through the flue pipe, these gases will cool rapidly the further away from the system they get, thus creating condensation. These furnaces are commonly referred to as "condensing furnaces" for this reason. This condensation is then channeled away from the unit through an intricate piping system or pump. When your thermostat is satisfied, the furnace will then ramp down, awaiting your next call for heat.

Your furnace is equipped with a control board. This is the place in your furnace where the control wiring from your thermostat and the power wiring from the breaker meet. This control board allows for the above operation to work flawlessly. But, what you don't know is that it does this, as well as provide you the security that your system is running safely. There are numerous safety devices and switches built in to your furnace, and the control board is constantly monitoring these safeties to insure that the system operates safely. If at any time during the start-up of the system, or during its operation, that any of these safety devices "trip", then the control board automatically turns the gas valve off to insure your health and safety, but also so that the unit does not sustain any further damage.

So, here is your new Trane Gas Furnace. I trust that you both will have a long and warm relationship.

This post sponsored by 

What Makes R-410A Better

It can't be "that" good, can it?

 

It’s Environmentally Friendlier.

If your system ever leaks, the escaping refrigerant won’t contribute to ozone depletion!

 

You avoid the risk that R-22 could become expensive or difficult to get when your system needs to be repaired in a few years.

The old refrigerant R-22 will be phased out along with other ozone depleting chemicals, and both supply and demand of this chemical will be significantly affected by current and upcoming regulations. By selecting an air conditioner or heat pump that uses R-410A, you will avoid the risk associated with purchasing a product that is destined to become obsolete.

 

R-410A systems can be more reliable than R-22 systems.

R-410A air conditioning and heat pump are today’s “state of the art” systems, and utilize the most current technology available for efficient and reliable operation. The heart of every air conditioner or heat pump is the compressor, and newer systems are specifically designed to use R-410A refrigerant. They often incorporate smaller, heavier-duty “scroll-type” compressors that are quieter and operate with less damaging vibration than older compressors that operate on R-22. Since R-410A can absorb and release heat more efficiently than R-22 ever could, compressors with R-410A run cooler than R-22 systems, reducing the risk of burnout due to overheating.

 

It uses a synthetic lubricant that helps to keep the system operating smoothly.

All air-conditioning systems use an oil that circulates through the inside of the system to keep all of the parts well lubricated, just like the engine of your car. R-22 air conditioners use an oil known as “mineral oil” that has been used for decades. R-410A air conditioners use newer synthetic lubricants that are usually more soluble with the R-410A than the old mineral oils are with the older R-22 refrigerants. This means the synthetic lubricants and R-410A can mix and circulate more efficiently to keep the compressor and other moving parts lubricated, reducing wear and extending their life. Also, just as many new cars use synthetic oils because they are less likely to break down under high stress and heat, the new synthetic oils used in R-410A air conditioners are less likely to break down under extreme conditions.

FAQ: Suggested Temperature Settings for a Heat Pump

In the winter, we recommend a temperature setting that is comfortable for your household. Once your thermostat is set, the best policy is to leave it alone. Raising the thermostat as little as 2° F may cause the supplementary heat to come on, thereby increasing your energy usage.

In the summer, a setting of 78° F or higher is recommended for cooling. For each degree you set the temperature below 78° F, you will increase your cooling energy usage approximately three percent.

Raising the temperature when you are away from home during the day is recommended to save energy. If you will be away for several days, turn the system off during the cooling season. Frequent changing of the thermostat setting reduces the economical operation of the heat pump and tends to shorten the life of the compressor.

A Look At Source-Specific Controls: Environmental Tobacco Smoke - A Guide to Indoor Air Quality, Part Twelve

Welcome back to our Guide to Indoor Air Quality series. Last time, we talked about radon. Time for part twelve...

Environmental Tobacco Smoke

Environmental tobacco smoke (ETS) is the mixture of smoke that comes from the burning end of a cigarette, pipe, or cigar, and smoke exhaled by the smoker. It is a complex mixture of over 4,000 compounds, more than 40 of which are known to cause cancer in humans or animals and many of which are strong irritants. ETS is often referred to as "secondhand smoke" and exposure to ETS is often called "passive smoking."

Health Effects of Environmental Tobacco Smoke

In 1992, EPA completed a major assessment of the respiratory health risks of ETS (Respiratory Health Effects of Passive Smoking: Lung Cancer and Other Disorders EPA/600/6-90/006F). The report concludes that exposure to ETS is responsible for approximately 3,000 lung cancer deaths each year in nonsmoking adults and impairs the respiratory health of hundreds of thousands of children.

Infants and young children whose parents smoke in their presence are at increased risk of lower respiratory tract infections (pneumonia and bronchitis) and are more likely to have symptoms of respiratory irritation like cough, excess phlegm, and wheeze. EPA estimates that passive smoking annually causes between 150,000 and 300,000 lower respiratory tract infections in infants and children under 18 months of age, resulting in between 7,500 and 15,000 hospitalizations each year. These children may also have a build-up of fluid in the middle ear, which can lead to ear infections. Older children who have been exposed to secondhand smoke may have slightly reduced lung function.

Asthmatic children are especially at risk. EPA estimates that exposure to secondhand smoke increases the number of episodes and severity of symptoms in hundreds of thousands of asthmatic children, and may cause thousands of nonasth-matic children to develop the disease each year. EPA estimates that between 200,000 and 1,000,000 asthmatic children have their condition made worse by exposure to secondhand smoke each year. Exposure to secondhand smoke causes eye, nose, and throat irritation. It may affect the cardiovascular system and some studies have linked exposure to secondhand smoke with the onset of chest pain. For publications about ETS, contact EPA's Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse (IAQ INFO), 800-438-4318 or (703) 356-4020.

Reducing Exposure to Environmental Tobacco Smoke

Don't smoke at home or permit others to do so. Ask smokers to smoke outdoors.

The 1986 Surgeon General's report concluded that physical separation of smokers and nonsmokers in a common air space, such as different rooms within the same house, may reduce - but will not eliminate - non-smokers' exposure to environmental tobacco smoke.

If smoking indoors cannot be avoided, increase ventilation in the area where smoking takes place.

Open windows or use exhaust fans. Ventilation, a common method of reducing exposure to indoor air pollutants, also will reduce but not eliminate exposure to environmental tobacco smoke. Because smoking produces such large amounts of pollutants, natural or mechanical ventilation techniques do not remove them from the air in your home as quickly as they build up. In addition, the large increases in ventilation it takes to significantly reduce exposure to environmental tobacco smoke can also increase energy costs substantially. Consequently, the most effective way to reduce exposure to environmental tobacco smoke in the home is to eliminate smoking there.

Do not smoke if children are present, particularly infants and toddlers.

Children are particularly susceptible to the effects of passive smoking. Do not allow baby-sitters or others who work in your home to smoke indoors. Discourage others from smoking around children. Find out about the smoking policies of the day care center providers, schools, and other care givers for your children. The policy should protect children from exposure to ETS.

Next in this series... Biological Contaminants

For most indoor air quality problems in the home, source control is the most effective solution. The upcoming posts in this series take a source-by-source look at the most common indoor air pollutants, their potential health effects, and ways to reduce levels in the home.



*Content provided by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and the Environmental Protection Agency. CPSC Document #450. This document is public domain.*

Product Feature: 9000 VisionPRO® Indoor Air Quality Digital Programmable Thermostat

With Honeywell's VisionPRO® IAQ Total Home Comfort System you can now control comfort and Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) throughout your entire home. VisionPRO IAQ eliminates the need for multiple controls in your living space, by managing your home's temperature, humidification, dehumidification and ventilation - all from a single, easy-to-use touchscreen control. If you want your home to feel as comfortable as it looks, then VisionPRO® IAQ is the thermostat for you. You'll enjoy the convenience, energy savings and consistent comfort for years to come.

A Look At Source-Specific Controls: Radon - A Guide to Indoor Air Quality, Part Eleven

Welcome back to our Guide to Indoor Air Quality series. Last time, we talked about air cleaners. Time for part eleven...

Radon (Rn)

The most common source of indoor radon is uranium in the soil or rock on which homes are built. As uranium naturally breaks down, it releases radon gas which is a colorless, odorless, radioactive gas. Radon gas enters homes through dirt floors, cracks in concrete walls and floors, floor drains, and sumps. When radon becomes trapped in buildings and concentrations build up indoors, exposure to radon becomes a concern.

Any home may have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements.

Sometimes radon enters the home through well water. In a small number of homes, the building materials can give off radon, too. However, building materials rarely cause radon problems by themselves.

Health Effects of Radon

The predominant health effect associated with exposure to elevated levels of radon is lung cancer. Research suggests that swallowing water with high radon levels may pose risks, too, although these are believed to be much lower than those from breathing air containing radon. Major health organizations (like the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the American Lung Association (ALA), and the American Medical Association) agree with estimates that radon causes thousands of preventable lung cancer deaths each year. EPA estimates that radon causes about 14,000 deaths per year in the United States--however, this number could range from 7,000 to 30,000 deaths per year. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.

Reducing Exposure to Radon in Homes

Measure levels of radon in your home.

You can't see radon, but it's not hard to find out if you have a radon problem in your home. Testing is easy and should only take a little of your time.

There are many kinds of inexpensive, do-it-yourself radon test kits you can get through the mail and in hardware stores and other retail outlets. Make sure you buy a test kit that has passed EPA's testing program or is state-certified. These kits will usually display the phrase "Meets EPA Requirements." If you prefer, or if you are buying or selling a home, you can hire a trained contractor to do the testing for you. EPA's voluntary National Radon Proficiency Program (RPP) evaluated testing (measurement) contractors. A contractor who had met EPA's requirements carried an EPA-generated RPP identification card. EPA provided a list of companies and individual contractors on this web site which was also available to state radon offices. You should call your state radon office to obtain a list of qualified contractors in your area. You can also contact either the National Environmental Health Association (NEHA) - http://www.neha.org or the National Radon Safety Board (NRSB) - http://www.nrsb.org for a list of proficient radon measurement and/or mitigation contractors.

Refer to the EPA guidelines on how to test and interpret your test results.

You can learn more about radon through EPA's publications, A Citizen's Guide to Radon: The Guide to Protecting Yourself and Your Family From Radon and Home Buyer's and Seller's Guide to Radon, which are also available from your state radon office.

Learn about radon reduction methods.

Ways to reduce radon in your home are discussed in EPA's Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction. You can get a copy from your state radon office. There are simple solutions to radon problems in homes. Thousands of homeowners have already fixed radon problems. Lowering high radon levels requires technical knowledge and special skills. You should use a contractor who is trained to fix radon problems.

A trained radon reduction contractor can study the problem in your home and help you pick the correct treatment method. Check with your state radon office for names of qualified or state-certified radon-reduction contractors in your area.

Stop smoking and discourage smoking in your home.

Scientific evidence indicates that smoking combined with radon is an especially serious health risk. Stop smoking and lower your radon level to reduce lung cancer risk.

Treat radon-contaminated well water.

While radon in water is not a problem in homes served by most public water supplies, it has been found in well water. If you've tested the air in your home and found a radon problem, and you have a well, contact a lab certified to measure radiation in water to have your water tested. Radon problems in water can be readily fixed. Call your state radon office or the EPA Drinking Water Hotline (800-426-4791) for more information.

Next in this series... Environmental Tobacco Smoke

For most indoor air quality problems in the home, source control is the most effective solution. The upcoming posts in this series take a source-by-source look at the most common indoor air pollutants, their potential health effects, and ways to reduce levels in the home.



*Content provided by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and the Environmental Protection Agency. CPSC Document #450. This document is public domain.*

Product Feature: Mitsubishi H2i Hyper-Heating INVERTER Systems Heat Pumps

Bringing Year-Round Comfort Solutions to Extreme Climates

Heat Pump System: 34200 to 36000 Btu/h Capacity

The cooling and heating success of Mitsubishi Electric’s INVERTER heat pump systems is well documented. Our Hyper-Heating INVERTER (H2i) P-Series technology advances the process a step further with the added benefit of year-round comfort with a single system even on the coldest days of the year in most areas. The 2.5- and 3-ton wall-mounted, ceiling-suspended, ceilingcassette and ducted indoor units connected to the H2i P-Series outdoor units are flexible enough to satisfy almost any light commercial or institutional renovation or new construction project.

• Specifications are subject to change without notice.
• Limited warranty: Seven-year warranty on compressor. Five-year warranty on parts.

Indoor Unit Item No.	Item Name	Outdoor Unit	Cooling Rated Capacity	Cooling Capacity Range	Cooling Total Input	Cooling Energy Efficiency
PKA-A30KA	Heat Pump System - Wall-mounted models - Wired Controller	PUZ-HA30NHA2	30000 Btu/hr	18000-30000 Btu/hr	2500 W	16.5 SEER
PKA-A36KA	Heat Pump System- Wall-mounted models - Wired Controller	PUZ-HA36NHA2	33500 Btu/hr	18000-34200 Btu/hr	2790 W	16.2 SEER
PKA-A30KAL	Heat Pump System- Wall-mounted models - Wireless Controller	PUZ-HA30NHA2	30000 Btu/hr	18000-30000 Btu/hr	2500 W	16.5 SEER
PKA-A36KAL	Heat Pump System - Wall-mounted models - Wireless Controller	PUZ-HA36NHA2	33500 Btu/hr	18000-34200 Btu/hr	2790 W	16.2 SEER
PLA-A30BA	Heat Pump System - Ceiling-casset te models	PUZ-HA30NHA2	30000 Btu/hr	18000-30000 Btu/hr	2450 W	15.6 SEER
PLA-A36BA	Heat Pump System - Ceiling-casset te models	PUZ-HA36NHA2	34000 Btu/hr	18000-36000 Btu/hr	2690 W	17.0 SEER
PCA-A30KA	Heat Pump System - Ceiling-suspended models	PUZ-HA30NHA2	30000 Btu/hr	18000-30000 Btu/hr	2480 W	16.1 SEER
PCA-A36KA	Heat Pump System - Ceiling-suspended models	PUZ-HA36NHA2	34000 Btu/hr	18000-36000 Btu/hr	2810 W	16.6 SEER
PEAD-A30AA	Heat Pump System - Horizontal ducted models	PUZ-HA30NHA2	30000 Btu/hr	18000-30000 Btu/hr	2500 W	16.5 SEER
PEAD-A36AA	Heat Pump System - Horizontal ducted models	PUZ-HA36NHA2	34000 Btu/hr	18000-36000 Btu/hr	2800 W	16.8 SEER

Air Cleaners - A Guide to Indoor Air Quality, Part Ten

Welcome back to our Guide to Indoor Air Quality series. Last time, we talked about ventilation. Time for part ten...

Air Cleaners

There are many types and sizes of air cleaners on the market, ranging from relatively inexpensive table-top models to sophisticated and expensive whole-house systems. Some air cleaners are highly effective at particle removal, while others, including most table-top models, are much less so. Air cleaners are generally not designed to remove gaseous pollutants.

The effectiveness of an air cleaner depends on how well it collects pollutants from indoor air (expressed as a percentage efficiency rate) and how much air it draws through the cleaning or filtering element (expressed in cubic feet per minute). A very efficient collector with a low air-circulation rate will not be effective, nor will a cleaner with a high air-circulation rate but a less efficient collector. The long-term performance of any air cleaner depends on maintaining it according to the manufacturer's directions.

Another important factor in determining the effectiveness of an air cleaner is the strength of the pollutant source. Table-top air cleaners, in particular, may not remove satisfactory amounts of pollutants from strong nearby sources. People with a sensitivity to particular sources may find that air cleaners are helpful only in conjunction with concerted efforts to remove the source. Over the past few years, there has been some publicity suggesting that houseplants have been shown to reduce levels of some chemicals in laboratory experiments. There is currently no evidence, however, that a reasonable number of houseplants remove significant quantities of pollutants in homes and offices. Indoor houseplants should not be over-watered because overly damp soil may promote the growth of microorganisms which can affect allergic individuals.

At present, EPA does not recommend using air cleaners to reduce levels of radon and its decay products. The effectiveness of these devices is uncertain because they only partially remove the radon decay products and do not diminish the amount of radon entering the home. EPA plans to do additional research on whether air cleaners are, or could become, a reliable means of reducing the health risk from radon. EPA's booklet, "Residential Air-Cleaning Devices", provides further information on air-cleaning devices to reduce indoor air pollutants.

EPA has recently released, "Ozone Generators That Are Sold As Air Cleaners". The purpose of this document is to provide accurate information regarding the use of ozone-generating devices in indoor occupied spaces. This information is based on the most credible scientific evidence currently available. EPA has recently published, "Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned?" EPA-402-K-97-002, October 1997. This document is intended to help consumers answer this often confusing question. The document explains what air duct cleaning is, provides guidance to help consumers decide whether to have the service performed in their home, and provides helpful information for choosing a duct cleaner, determining if duct cleaning was done properly, and how to prevent contamination of air ducts.

Next in this series... Radon

For most indoor air quality problems in the home, source control is the most effective solution. The upcoming posts in this series take a source-by-source look at the most common indoor air pollutants, their potential health effects, and ways to reduce levels in the home.

*Content provided by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and the Environmental Protection Agency. CPSC Document #450. This document is public domain.*