FAQ: What Are Some Ways To Help Control My Heating And Cooling Costs?

Once the thermostat is set, it should be left alone. However, programmable thermostats are commonly installed on systems to setback the house temperatures while you are away from your home. The air filters inside the system need to be checked, cleaned, or changed each month. The outdoor fan should not be covered or obstructed, so it can receive proper air flow.

Precision Tune Up checks should be performed which include refrigerant level checks, indoor/outdoor coil inspections (cleaning, if needed) and duct inspections. Duct inspections are very important. A poorly performing duct system can cause air comfort problems, high utility bills, and could become hazardous. We can measure your entire system's performance and show you how to get the most out of your heating and cooling system.

FAQ: Is the Heat Pump an Economical or Expensive Way of Heating & Cooling? And How Does It Operate?

A heat pump may actually provide more than three units of heat for each unit of electricity used.

For example: 
If a kilowatt-hour of heat is needed for comfort, it can be supplied by a one thousand-watt electric heater. To provide the same amount of heat, the heat pump might use as little as 330 watts in an hour.

This is a ratio of three to one. The ratio is referred to as the Coefficient of Performance (COP). Electric resistance heaters have a COP of 1 because they are using electricity to create heat. A heat pump moves heat from the outside to the inside of the home and vice versa, not using energy to create heat. We recommend a COP of at least 1.8 at standard test conditions of 17 ° F dry bulb and 15 ° F wet bulb.

We're sure that explanation was as clear as mud. Let's look at it this way. Gas and fuel oil prices are going through the roof. It looks like the heat pump is becoming a better option.

FAQ: Should the Outdoor Unit Run Continuously?

Below the balance point (around 30° F), it is normal for the outdoor fan to continually run. If the outdoor unit continually runs during normal heating (30° - 50° F outside), possible problems are:

• Thermostat set too high
• Thermostat needs adjustment
• Low refrigerant level in unit
• Thermostat exposed to cold draft
• Outside unit coil is blocked by snow, ice, etc.

If the outdoor unit continually runs during normal cooling, possible problems are:

• Low refrigerant level in unit
• Very warm weather (over 90 ° F)
• Thermostat located near heat source, such as appliances, TV, etc.
• Dirty filters or too many registers closed limiting air movement
• Improperly designed duct work
• Unit may be undersized 

Call us today at 1-800-358-(HVAC) 4822 for help with your HVAC system!

FAQ: Why Should I Invest in a 13 SEER or Higher Unit?

There are 13 reasons why you should purchase a heat pump/air conditioner carrying a 13 SEER rating or higher:

1. 13 SEER or higher units are significantly more efficient than 10 SEER units, saving you energy dollars through every season of the year.
2. They are much quieter than 10 SEER units, which makes your home a more pleasant place to live.
3. They have a 5 to 10 year compressor warranty and up to five years full parts, labor, materials and freon warranty, which ensures that the costs to run this unit are low. (Ask your contractor for details)
4. They are built better and have a much nicer fit and finish.
5. 13 SEER or higher units are fitted with much better controls and protective devices to protect the unit if a problem occurs (bad power, refrigerant loss, etc.).
6. 13 SEER or higher units have a new high tech scroll compressor which is extremely reliable and provides warmer feeling heat.
7. They have a 5 minute time-delay to keep heat from turning on and off during storms, or if someone is tampering with the thermostat.
8. They have commercial grade service valves to keep service costs down and equipment life high.
9. They have compressor sound and fan insulation systems that are attractive and significantly reduce the sound of the outdoor unit.
10. They have a much better blower than the standard system which enhances performance and comfort.
11. They have an expansion valve that adjusts the refrigerant flow which allows the unit to provide a higher level of comfort and better humidity control.
12. 13 SEER or higher units have an accumulator which catches extra refrigerant and helps protect the compressor.
13. And lastly, the Department of Energy says so! In January 2006, the DOE raised the minimum cooling efficiency on residential air conditioners and heat pumps to 13 SEER from its older minimum of 10 SEER.

Questions? Ask a Sales Consultant.

FAQ: What is the EER? And How Is It Different Than SEER?

Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) is a measure of how efficiently a cooling system will operate when the outdoor temperature is at a specific level (95oF). In technical terms, EER is the steady-state rate of heat energy removal (i.e. cooling capacity) by the product measured in Btuh divided by the steady-state rate of energy input to the product measured in watts. This ratio is expressed in Btuh/watt. The higher the EER, the more efficient the air conditioner.

Both SEER and EER are included in the ENERGY STAR specification because each rating indicates the energy efficiency of the product under different operating modes. SEER rating more accurately reflects overall system efficiency on a seasonal basis and EER reflects the system’s energy efficiency at peak day operations. Both ratings are important when choosing a product.

FAQ: Why Should I Replace My System?

Good News: you don't have to! We're serious. I know I would much rather spend my hard earned income on a nice beach vacation. We know that you want to "milk" every last ounce of useful life out of your system. And that is O.K.

We do not blame you for wanting to hold off. "If it's not broken, don't fix it." Right? Take the Repair Vs. Replace Quiz that we posted in November! It's an eye-opening experience, especially when the obvious hits you like that.

Howell's can do a few things to help:

1. Give you a Free (yes, free!) Home Comfort Survey. If we can spot a way to save you some energy dollars, we'll show you how.
2. Calculate the efficiency of your heating and cooling system now and how much a new one could save you.
3. If a new system makes sense, we want to offer you one with no money down. No pressure. Just solid money-saving advice!

Call us now! (804) 798-1371 now before it's too late. There's no obligation at all, besides would you rather find out now while your system is operating, or wait until the hottest day of the year when you will pay anybody anything to get some no-name brand in ASAP! Go ahead! Knowledge is power!

FAQ: What is AFUE?

AFUE or Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency is a rating that reflects how efficient a gas furnace converts fuel to energy. A gas furnace with an AFUE of 95 means that approximately 95 percent of the fuel is utilized to provide warmth to your home, while the remaining 5 percent flows up the flue and into the atmosphere. Therefore you are actually using 95% of the fuel you are paying for and the other 5% is being wasted up the flue vent.

FAQ: What is This Thing Called H.S.P.F.?

H.S.P.F. = Heating Seasonal Performance Factor.

The heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF) is a measure of heat pump heating performance. Like the SEER rating, it is similar to the miles per gallon (MPG) of your automobile: the higher, the better. The HSPF rating number is derived by taking an average of performance at many different outdoor temperatures. Because HSPF is the best way to judge how efficient a heat pump is, it is important to review this rating with your sales representative as you consider specifications on your new system.

FAQ: Should I Repair or Replace My Old Furnace, Air Conditioner or Heat Pump?

Our company is committed to the technical excellence of the service we provide you and, therefore, require our 'champion' technicians to attend regular training sessions. Besides the technician who actually does the repair, Howell's has highly competent and experienced field supervisors who, although you may never see, provide valuable backup to the technician. So, should a second opinion ever be required about a technical question, you don't have to worry because the technician has highly qualified expertise to bring to each call.

(But who cares? The technician isn't living in your house day in and day out, right? He just wants to move equipment!) Wrong! Take a look for yourself whether you should repair or replace that system that is still "working fine"

Should I Repair or Replace My Old Furnace, Air Conditioner or Heat Pump?

(This is an example of a 10-year-old furnace and air conditioner system. Based on current repair at the home and potential replacement cost today.)

REPAIR TODAY	EXAMPLE: Compare a repair on a 10-year-old "no heat" furnace/AC by putting in a new blower motor VS replacing the furnace with a new, high-efficiency system	REPLACE TODAY
What is the cost of today's repair, i.e., $350 for a replacement blower motor.	TODAY'S COST	Ballpark investment for a high-efficiency model furnace/AC, i.e., $6,700 (Avg. price)
What is your best guess on repairs over the next few years until the furnace/AC must be replaced? I.E., $350	FUTURE REPAIRS	NONE! Your 5 or 10 year bumper-to-bumper warranty covers all that risk.
ASHRAE data shows that the expected furnace life is 18 years, so we have 8 years to go at (your guess) $1,000 per year. 8 x $1,000 = $8,000. Typical Air Conditioner life expectancy is 15 years at an average electrical cost of $700 a year. 8 x $700 = $5,600	ENERGY COST TO OPERATE FOR 10 YEARS	The new, high-efficiency model will save 30-40% of their heating & cooling costs, so figure $600 per year for heating. 10 x $600 = $6,000. And $450 per year for cooling. 10 x $450 = $4,500
At some point the furnace/AC must be replaced so this is the ballpark investment for the high-efficiency model, at a minimum 2% increase annually. i.e., $7,851.	COST TO REPLACE THE UNIT IN 10 YEARS*	NONE! It works great and the customers are happy!
NONE! Actually, you will also have the inconvenience of at least one more failure!	ADDITIONAL COMFORT BENEFITS	LOTS! More comfortable due to proper sizing, better technology, quieter, less worry, better filtration, and more!
In this example, the numbers add up to: $22,151	TOTAL COST OF OWNERSHIP FOR 10 YEARS	In this example, the numbers add up to: $17,200
AMOUNT SAVED BY REPLACING TODAY $4,951

*To calculate the cost to replace the unit in the future:
(Today's Replacement Cost) + (Inflation [avg 2% yearly] for X Years) = $ Future Replacement Cost

That wasn't so bad, now was it? At least now you have a clear picture of what your system is doing for you. Now it is up to you. Let us know how we can best serve you in the future. For more information, answers, or to get a no-obligation FREE replacement quote, visit our website!

FAQ: Suggested Temperature Settings for a Heat Pump

In the winter, we recommend a temperature setting that is comfortable for your household. Once your thermostat is set, the best policy is to leave it alone. Raising the thermostat as little as 2° F may cause the supplementary heat to come on, thereby increasing your energy usage.

In the summer, a setting of 78° F or higher is recommended for cooling. For each degree you set the temperature below 78° F, you will increase your cooling energy usage approximately three percent.

Raising the temperature when you are away from home during the day is recommended to save energy. If you will be away for several days, turn the system off during the cooling season. Frequent changing of the thermostat setting reduces the economical operation of the heat pump and tends to shorten the life of the compressor.

FAQs: Should The Thermostat Be Set Back At Night Or Should I Close Off Registers To Cut Back Usage?

Although night setback is recommended during the winter for most types of heating system to save and reduce costs, it is generally not recommended for a heat pump unless you're using a programmable thermostat designed expressly for use with a heat pump is used. When you have a heat pump and raise the house temperature in the morning, the supplementary heat may come on using more electricity than you saved during the night. It is a good idea to reduce the thermostat temperature settings for weekend trips or vacations during the heating season.

The use of a standard automatic nighttime setback control with a heat pump is not recommended. Many manufactures now provide programmable thermostats designed for night setback so that the supplementary heaters will not normally be energized during the time that the heating system is recovering.

Do not block registers and return grills with furniture, draperies, or rugs. Although cutting off heat to unused rooms is frequently suggested as a conservation measure, we recommend that all supply registers for a heat pump be left open. The system is designed to heat or cool a specific space. If air circulation is reduced drastically, the compressor may be damaged.

FAQs: What Is This Thing Called SEER?

SEER is an acronym for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. The seasonal energy efficiency rating (SEER) of your heat pump or air conditioning unit is to these pieces of equipment as miles per gallon (MPG) is to cars.

It is a measure of the air conditioning performance of the system, where the higher rating is the better. The basic formula for SEER, or how this number is assigned, is BTU's of the air conditioning unit divided by the wattage needed to run the unit (BTU/WATT). The consumer must beware, however, because many companies are currently producing budget grade 12 and 14 SEER units that are not built to high quality standards. Be certain to always review the specifications and features of a unit with your sales representative to ensure that you are getting what you expect.

Remember to ask questions about SEER - the miles per gallon of the air conditioning world

FAQs: Is One System More Efficient Than Another?

YES! It's a simple answer, I know. But here's why. Back in January 2006 the minimum efficiency of heat pumps and air conditioners was raised from 10 SEER to 13 SEER. On the market today, a customer can choose a minimum 13 SEER system all the way up to 20 SEER equipment. SEER is like the gas mileage in your vehicle, and the higher the gas mileage the better, right? The higher the SEER number means the less kilowatts used to operate your heating and cooling system on a monthly basis.

Now, the true barometer of energy efficiency is your current utility bill. If money was no object, then we would love for every single Howell's customer to own a 20 SEER Two-Stage system. But let's be realistic. 20 SEER systems are good for those customers that will be able to see the benefit of the added energy efficiency on their monthly utility bills. Depending on what your monthly utility costs are, we can take a look at some system options and decide where you would see your maximum energy efficiency and utility savings.

FAQs: Why Do Prices Differ from Contractor to Contractor on the Same Unit?

When consumers decide to buy toaster ovens, televisions and trash compactors, the process is typically to go out, check prices and buy the product with the best price. Price shopping makes the purchase easy: the price tells us who to buy from.

But, when it comes to buying a heating and cooling system, price may get you into deep trouble. Many consumers ask us: How can the price be different when all three contractors are quoting the same unit?

The answer is easy and difficult at the same time. Heating and cooling systems are not toaster ovens. They do not just come out of the box, plug in and operate. When a contractor estimates a system, the equipment itself is only 40% to 50% of the price. The balance is in design, labor, parts, materials, warranty, wiring, controls and other components.

So, when the consumer is presented with the price, they must know that a significant portion of the total bill is for things other than equipment. It's a fact that, when there is a difference in price on heating and cooling systems, there is always a difference in the scope of the job.

Consumers must take great care in educating themselves on the contractor and their sales representative, because bottom line, you are not just buying a heating and cooling system, you are buying a contractor. Always buy from the contractor in whom you have the most confidence. Period. Be sure that your contractor gets to know you and takes the time to discover how you live, your comfort problems and your plans for your home. All of this information will help him or her in the process of designing the system that is just right for you.

Still have questions? Feel free to give us a call at (804) 798-1371. We'd be happy to help!