All About Air Ducts: What is Air Duct Cleaning?

Most people are now aware that indoor air pollution is an issue of growing concern and increased visibility. Many companies are marketing products and services intended to improve the quality of your indoor air. You have probably seen an advertisement, received a coupon in the mail, or been approached directly by a company offering to clean your air ducts as a means of improving your home's indoor air quality. These services typically but not always range in cost from $450 to $1,000 per heating and cooling system, depending on the services offered, the size of the system to be cleaned, system accessibility, climatic region, and level of contamination.

Duct cleaning generally refers to the cleaning of various heating and cooling system components of forced air systems, including the supply and return air ducts and registers, grilles and diffusers, heat exchangers heating and cooling coils, condensate drain pans (drip pans), fan motor and fan housing, and the air handling unit housing.

If not properly installed, maintained, and operated, these components may become contaminated with particles of dust, pollen or other debris. If moisture is present, the potential for microbiological growth (e.g., mold) is increased and spores from such growth may be released into the home's living space. Some of these contaminants may cause allergic reactions or other symptoms in people if they are exposed to them. If you decide to have your heating and cooling system cleaned, it is important to make sure the service provider agrees to clean all components of the system and is qualified to do so. Failure to clean a component of a contaminated system can result in re-contamination of the entire system, thus negating any potential benefits. Methods of duct cleaning vary, although standards have been established by industry associations concerned with air duct cleaning. Typically, a service provider will use specialized tools to dislodge dirt and other debris in ducts, then vacuum them out with a high-powered vacuum cleaner.

In addition, the service provider may propose applying chemical biocides, designed to kill microbiological contaminants, to the inside of the ductwork and to other system components. Some service providers may also suggest applying chemical treatments (sealants or other encapsulants) to seal or cover the inside surfaces of the air ducts and equipment housings because they believe the sealant will control mold growth or prevent the release of dirt particles or fibers from ducts. These practices have yet to be fully researched and you should be fully informed before deciding to permit the use of biocides or sealants in your air ducts. They should only be applied, if at all, after the system has been properly cleaned of all visible dust or debris. Knowledge about the potential benefits and possible problems of air duct cleaning is limited. Since conditions in every home are different, it is impossible to generalize about whether or not air duct cleaning in your home would be beneficial.

If no one in your household suffers from allergies or unexplained symptoms or illnesses and if, after a visual inspection of the inside of the ducts, you see no indication that your air ducts are contaminated with large deposits of dust or mold (no musty odor or visible mold growth), having your air ducts cleaned is probably unnecessary. It is normal for the return registers to get dusty as dust-laden air is pulled through the grate. This does not indicate that your air ducts are contaminated with heavy deposits of dust or debris; the registers can be easily vacuumed or removed and cleaned.

On the other hand, if family members are experiencing unusual or unexplained symptoms or illnesses that you think might be related to your home environment, you should discuss the situation with your doctor. EPA has published Indoor Air Quality: An Introduction for Health Professionals that can be obtained free of charge. You may read our post series A Guide to Indoor Air Quality for guidance on identifying possible indoor air quality problems and ways to prevent or fix them.

You may consider having your air ducts cleaned simply because it seems logical that air ducts will get dirty over time and should occasionally be cleaned. While the debate about the value of periodic duct cleaning continues, no evidence suggests that such cleaning would be detrimental, provided that it is done properly.

On the other hand, if a service provider fails to follow proper duct cleaning procedures, duct cleaning can cause indoor air problems. For example, an inadequate vacuum collection system can release more dust, dirt, and other contaminants than if you had left the ducts alone. A careless or inadequately trained service provider can damage your ducts or heating and cooling system, possibly increasing your heating and air conditioning costs or forcing you to undertake difficult and costly repairs or replacements.

Product Feature: Carrier Performance Fan Humidifier

Fan-Powered Humidifier Keeps Home Comfortable All Year

Models: HUMCCLFP, HUMCCSFP

The Performance Fan Humidifier blows moisture vapor directly into your ducts. This home humidifier was engineered to work with Carrier products for improved whole house comfort. Avoid static electricity shocks and enjoy optimum humidity levels year-round.

• Self-powered fan
• Front access door
• Low-noise operation
• Attractive, long-lasting, cover
• Optimum moisture distribution
• Small or large capacity models available
• Humidistat, Humiditrac™, Thermidistat™ and Infinity control options
• 5-year limited warranty on parts 

FAQ: What is AFUE?

AFUE or Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency is a rating that reflects how efficient a gas furnace converts fuel to energy. A gas furnace with an AFUE of 95 means that approximately 95 percent of the fuel is utilized to provide warmth to your home, while the remaining 5 percent flows up the flue and into the atmosphere. Therefore you are actually using 95% of the fuel you are paying for and the other 5% is being wasted up the flue vent.

A Look At Source-Specific Controls: Formaldehyde - A Guide to Indoor Air Quality, Part Sixteen

Welcome back to our Guide to Indoor Air Quality series. Last time, we talked about household products. Time for part sixteen...

Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde is an important chemical used widely by industry to manufacture building materials and numerous household products. It is also a by-product of combustion and certain other natural processes. Thus, it may be present in substantial concentrations both indoors and outdoors. Sources of formaldehyde in the home include building materials, smoking, household products, and the use of unvented, fuel-burning appliances, like gas stoves or kerosene space heaters. Formaldehyde, by itself or in combination with other chemicals, serves a number of purposes in manufactured products. For example, it is used to add permanent-press qualities to clothing and draperies, as a component of glues and adhesives, and as a preservative in some paints and coating products.

In homes, the most significant sources of formaldehyde are likely to be pressed wood products made using adhesives that contain urea-formaldehyde (UF) resins. Pressed wood products made for indoor use include: particleboard (used as subflooring and shelving and in cabinetry and furniture); hardwood plywood paneling (used for decorative wall covering and used in cabinets and furniture); and medium density fiberboard (used for drawer fronts, cabinets, and furniture tops). Medium density fiberboard contains a higher resin-to-wood ratio than any other UF pressed wood product and is generally recognized as being the highest formaldehyde-emitting pressed wood product.

Other pressed wood products, such as softwood plywood and flake or oriented strandboard, are produced for exterior construction use and contain the dark, or red/black-colored phenol-formaldehyde (PF) resin. Although formaldehyde is present in both types of resins, pressed woods that contain PF resin generally emit formaldehyde at considerably lower rates than those containing UF resin.

Since 1985, the Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) has permitted only the use of plywood and particleboard that conform to specified formaldehyde emission limits in the construction of prefabricated and mobile homes. In the past, some of these homes had elevated levels of formaldehyde because of the large amount of high-emitting pressed wood products used in their construction and because of their relatively small interior space.

The rate at which products like pressed wood or textiles release formaldehyde can change. Formaldehyde emissions will generally decrease as products age. When the products are new, high indoor temperatures or humidity can cause increased release of formaldehyde from these products.

During the 1970s, many homeowners had urea-formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) installed in the wall cavities of their homes as an energy conservation measure. However, many of these homes were found to have relatively high indoor concentrations of formaldehyde soon after the UFFI installation. Few homes are now being insulated with this product. Studies show that formaldehyde emissions from UFFI decline with time; therefore, homes in which UFFI was installed many years ago are unlikely to have high levels of formaldehyde now.

Health Effects of Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde, a colorless, pungent-smelling gas, can cause watery eyes, burning sensations in the eyes and throat, nausea, and difficulty in breathing in some humans exposed at elevated levels (above 0.1 parts per million). High concentrations may trigger attacks in people with asthma. There is evidence that some people can develop a sensitivity to formaldehyde. It has also been shown to cause cancer in animals and may cause cancer in humans.

Reducing Exposure to Formaldehyde in Homes

Ask about the formaldehyde content of pressed wood products, including building materials, cabinetry, and furniture before you purchase them. If you experience adverse reactions to formaldehyde, you may want to avoid the use of pressed wood products and other formaldehyde-emitting goods. Even if you do not experience such reactions, you may wish to reduce your exposure as much as possible by purchasing exterior-grade products, which emit less formaldehyde. For further information on formaldehyde and consumer products, call the EPA Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA) assistance line (202-554-1404).

Some studies suggest that coating pressed wood products with polyurethane may reduce formaldehyde emissions for some period of time. To be effective, any such coating must cover all surfaces and edges and remain intact. Increase the ventilation and carefully follow the manufacturer instructions while applying these coatings. (If you are sensitive to formaldehyde, check the label contents before purchasing coating products to avoid buying products that contain formaldehyde, as they will emit the chemical for a short time after application.) Maintain moderate temperature and humidity levels and provide adequate ventilation. The rate at which formaldehyde is released is accelerated by heat and may also depend somewhat on the humidity level. Therefore, the use of dehumidifiers and air conditioning to control humidity and to maintain a moderate temperature can help reduce formaldehyde emissions. (Drain and clean dehumidifier collection trays frequently so that they do not become a breeding ground for microorganisms.) Increasing the rate of ventilation in your home will also help in reducing formaldehyde levels.

Next in this series... Pesticides

For most indoor air quality problems in the home, source control is the most effective solution. The upcoming posts in this series take a source-by-source look at the most common indoor air pollutants, their potential health effects, and ways to reduce levels in the home.



*Content provided by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and the Environmental Protection Agency. CPSC Document #450. This document is public domain.*

Tips on How to Operate Your Heat Pump

Your heat pump does not operate like other heating systems. In the heating mode, the heat pump removes heat from outside and transfers it to the air inside. Inthe cooling mde, the heat pump removes heat from the inside air and discharges it to the outside ar. The heating and cooling modes are controlled automatically by the indor thermostat setting.

The coils in your heat pump operate at lower heat levels than fossil fuel (Gas or Propane) systems. Air at the supply registers usually has a temperature ranging from 85° to 110°F in the winter.

Even outside winter air contains some heat. As outside airtemperature drops, the unit runs more to collect and deliver the necessary heat inside your home. Hence, the heatpump moves less heat incold weather. The balance point of the heat pump occurs when at full capacity, it supplies all the heat your home requires. As outside temperature drops below the balance point, the supplemental heat (Electric resistene heat, gas or oil backup) is required to maintain your thermostat setting.

If your heat pump has supplementary electric resistance heaters located in the air distribution system (air handler or fan coil unit), just ask a Howell's technician how the heaters are controlled.

6 Very Easy Tips That Anyone Can Do

1. Dirt is the #1 cause of system failure. Getting the proper amount of airflow across the indoor and outdoor coils is very important. Check your return air filter(s) every month. If you are using a standard 1" disposable filter then listen up. First, if it is dirty, then change it immediately. But if it is clean, then you should throw it away and BUY A BETTER FILTER! Remember, dirt in a filter is a good thing. That means that the dirt is not in your system. If you filter is clean, then unless you live in a vacuum the dirt is slipping through the cheap filters.
2. Do not keep lamps near your thermostat. Light bulbs emit heat which is sensed by your thermostat, thus causing your thermostat to reach the set point temperature before the house has reached that temperature. Most digital, or programmable thermostats have a backlit display.
3. Do not close off more than one supply register at a time, closing off more will restrict airflow too much for efficient operation.
4. Keep return grilles free of blockage, such as pictures, sofas, or bookcases. Unrestricted airflow needs to flow back to the indoor unit.
5. If your indoor unit is in your attic or your crawl space, inspect your exposed ductwork. You will lose on average over 35% of your heat through little duct leaks. Most common areas to check - the run-outs or the flexible ducts coming off of the main duct trunk. If you are unsure what you are looking at, or suspect that you have leakage and are not sure how to fix it, give us a call or contact a Howells Technician.
6. Get on a routine maintenance schedule. Or,invest in your system's future with a maintenance contract, like our Energy Savings Plan Comfort Club Membership.

Your heating system is a very specialized and expensive appliance. These tips will help you, but in case of breakdown you should contact a qualified, NATE Certified company to perform the work. One last tip, yes you are getting 7 tips for the price of 6.

Bonus: If you do require a repair, and do not have a regular service company: when you call, ask if they provide FLAT RATE PRICING! This is your safety blanket. Flat rate pricing is a standardized price book on all HVAC repairs. The benefit to you is that if whether the repair takes 10 minutes or 5 hours, you are only paying one price. You are not paying the service tech by the hour to milk you. Good luck this winter.

Product Feature: Aprilaire Model 8126 Ventilation Control System

Get state-of-the-art control to keep your indoor air as fresh as possible. Installed as part of your home’s heating and cooling system, the Aprilaire Ventilation Controller makes decisions regarding when—and how long—to ventilate. It does this through continuous montinoring of indoor relative humdity, outdoor temperature, and user-friendly settings.

Features
An Aprilaire Ventilation Control System allows you to manage the quality of your home’s air year-round, with little effort. An Aprilaire Ventilation Controller:

• Will not ventilate if the outdoor temperature is above 100° F
• Will not ventilate if the outdoor temperature is below 0° F
• Only ventilates if a call for heat is received by your central heating system when the outdoor temperature is between 0° F and 20°
• Will not ventilate if the outdoor air will raise indoor relative humidity above 55%
• Has cycle times ranging from every one to four hours, with ventilation times lasting from zero to sixty minutes.

Choosing the right ventilation system is an important decision and investment.

Product Feature: Water Furnace Synergy3D Series - 16.6 EER / 3.7 COP

Overall Efficiency, Peformance & Features:

• Multi-stage heating and cooling
• 16.6 EER / 3.7 COP (ARI 13256-1 GLHP)
• Hot water generation
• Integrated Radiant Heat

With the Synergy3 Series, you'll enjoy incredible energy savings on your heating and cooling costs while providing hot water for radiant floor heat. The Synergy3 is the geothermal equivalent of a boiler, furnace and air conditioner—all in a single unit. Units are available in three vertical sizes. Cabinets are constructed with heavy-gauge metal and are coated with durable poly paint for long lasting beauty and protection. Copeland Scroll compressors provide outstanding performance and reliability, while coated air coils add durability and longer life. Variable speed ECM blower motors are used for quiet operation. A sophisticated microprocessor control sequences all components during operation for optimum performance, and provides easy-to-use troubleshooting features with fault lights and on-board diagnostics. To help achieve ultimate comfort, heating priority may be given to forced air zones or radiant floor heat.

A Look At Source-Specific Controls: Household Products - A Guide to Indoor Air Quality, Part Fifteen

Welcome back to our Guide to Indoor Air Quality series. Last time, we talked about stoves, heaters, fireplaces and chimneys. Time for part fifteen...

Household Products

Organic chemicals are widely used as ingredients in household products. Paints, varnishes, and wax all contain organic solvents, as do many cleaning, disinfecting, cosmetic, degreasing, and hobby products. Fuels are made up of organic chemicals. All of these products can release organic compounds while you are using them, and, to some degree, when they are stored.

EPA's Total Exposure Assessment Methodology (TEAM) studies found levels of about a dozen common organic pollutants to be 2 to 5 times higher inside homes than outside, regardless of whether the homes were located in rural or highly industrial areas. Additional TEAM studies indicate that while people are using products containing organic chemicals, they can expose themselves and others to very high pollutant levels, and elevated concentrations can persist in the air long after the activity is completed.

Health Effects of Household Chemicals

The ability of organic chemicals to cause health effects varies greatly, from those that are highly toxic, to those with no known health effect. As with other pollutants, the extent and nature of the health effect will depend on many factors including level of exposure and length of time exposed. Eye and respiratory tract irritation, headaches, dizziness, visual disorders, and memory impairment are among the immediate symptoms that some people have experienced soon after exposure to some organics. At present, not much is known about what health effects occur from the levels of organics usually found in homes. Many organic compounds are known to cause cancer in animals; some are suspected of causing, or are known to cause, cancer in humans.

Reducing Exposure to Household Chemicals

Follow label instructions carefully. Potentially hazardous products often have warnings aimed at reducing exposure of the user. For example, if a label says to use the product in a well-ventilated area, go outdoors or in areas equipped with an exhaust fan to use it. Otherwise, open up windows to provide the maximum amount of outdoor air possible.

Throw away partially full containers of old or unneeded chemicals safely. Because gases can leak even from closed containers, this single step could help lower concentrations of organic chemicals in your home. (Be sure that materials you decide to keep are stored not only in a well-ventilated area but are also safely out of reach of children.) Do not simply toss these unwanted products in the garbage can. Find out if your local government or any organization in your community sponsors special days for the collection of toxic household wastes. If such days are available, use them to dispose of the unwanted containers safely. If no such collection days are available, think about organizing one.

Buy limited quantities. If you use products only occasionally or seasonally, such as paints, paint strippers, and kerosene for space heaters or gasoline for lawn mowers, buy only as much as you will use right away.

Keep exposure to emissions from products containing methylene chloride to a minimum. Consumer products that contain methylene chloride include paint strippers, adhesive removers, and aerosol spray paints. Methylene chloride is known to cause cancer in animals. Also, methylene chloride is converted to carbon monoxide in the body and can cause symptoms associated with exposure to carbon monoxide. Carefully read the labels containing health hazard information and cautions on the proper use of these products. Use products that contain methylene chloride outdoors when possible; use indoors only if the area is well ventilated.

Keep exposure to benzene to a minimum. Benzene is a known human carcinogen. The main indoor sources of this chemical are environmental tobacco smoke, stored fuels and paint supplies, and automobile emissions in attached garages. Actions that will reduce benzene exposure include eliminating smoking within the home, providing for maximum ventilation during painting, and discarding paint supplies and special fuels that will not be used immediately.

Keep exposure to perchloroethylene emissions from newly dry-cleaned materials to a minimum. Perchloroethylene is the chemical most widely used in dry cleaning. In laboratory studies, it has been shown to cause cancer in animals. Recent studies indicate that people breathe low levels of this chemical both in homes where dry-cleaned goods are stored and as they wear dry-cleaned clothing. Dry cleaners recapture the perchloroethylene during the dry-cleaning process so they can save money by re-using it, and they remove more of the chemical during the pressing and finishing processes. Some dry cleaners, however, do not remove as much perchloroethylene as possible all of the time. Taking steps to minimize your exposure to this chemical is prudent. If dry-cleaned goods have a strong chemical odor when you pick them up, do not accept them until they have been properly dried. If goods with a chemical odor are returned to you on subsequent visits, try a different dry cleaner.

Next in this series... Formaldehyde

For most indoor air quality problems in the home, source control is the most effective solution. The upcoming posts in this series take a source-by-source look at the most common indoor air pollutants, their potential health effects, and ways to reduce levels in the home.



*Content provided by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and the Environmental Protection Agency. CPSC Document #450. This document is public domain.*